The British edition of the fashion magazine wanted to celebrate the rise of African models. But the image is strongly criticised because the models were all wearing "European-style wigs" (although they usually don't), that they were all dressed in black, posed statically without " joy" the models are not lit and their skin had been darkened when retouched to the point of making the photograph difficult to read.
Presenting Abény Nhial, Adut Akech, Akon Changkou, Amar Akway, Anok Yai, Janet Jumbo, Majesty Amare, Maty Fall & Nyagua Ruea. The cover became, within days, "one of the most liked British Vogue covers of all time" on Instagram. In parallel with this enthusiasm on the account of the magazine, many voices have emerged on social networks to question the artistic choices made by the editor-in-chief Edward Enninful to immortalize the nine women.
On Twitter, Brazilian photographer Rafael Pavarotti, who signs the dossier, was called "notorious for obscuring dark-skinned people". In an Instagram story, Christiana Mbakwe-Medina, a writer on parody show The Daily Show with Trevor Noah, called the modelling lighting a "masquerade".
For Nigerian journalist Stephanie Busari, this "dark and sinister tableau" in which the models are staged and their "dark lighting" makes them "almost indistinguishable" and presents a "homogenised vision". A paradox for a "cover supposed to celebrate their individuality": "Was it really the best way to celebrate black beauty? Wouldn't it have been better to let their unique and natural beauty shine?"