Unisex, mixed, genderless, genderfluid: How does the relationship to gender evolve in fashion?

Fashion has always been gendered. There are clothes for women, clothes for men and for children. This distinction is often criticized as too restrictive, limiting little girls to princess

sequin prints and boys to dragon and firefighter prints. But what about the boys who dress in

sequined princess dresses? And what about adult fashion? How do you dress when you are

a person who is not a man or a woman but is fluid in his gender? The notion of gender

identity distinguishes a person's sex as a sexual organ from their gender identity, namely

male, female, both or otherwise. A person can be born female, and feel more masculine

without changing gender. And conversely, a male man can assume his feminine part without

changing his sex. It's gender identity. This identity can in some people be fluid.

In 202O, the “British Fashion Council” chose to make London fashion week “genderless”. For 40 years, the men's and women's fashion shows each had their dates, this year in June and September it is the same virtual date that brought together all the shows to make a single fashion week, with the wish to reflect the cultural evolution of the relationship to gender.

What is an inclusive brand?

An inclusive brand replaces the male / female label with a body diagram. Removing the notion of gender from clothing allows everyone to freely appropriate the garment, to wear it according to what they want to wear.

This is what the brand "Gender Free World" offers, its slogan: "clothing without labels. No

matter your gender, what matters to us is that our clothes fit your body. " Thus, on their online sales site the brand offers cuts according to morphologies named A B C D corresponding to body types. It is up to customers to choose their cut according to their body and not their gender.

Or the ethical “gender neutral” brand Marrakshi Life. The moroccan brand offers colorful clothes, various cuts: dresses, coats, hoodies without indicating what kind these clothes are intended for, thus letting each person choose their own clothing.

Other established brands are also going genderless such as Stella MC cartney. The British fashion house has always shared values rooted in activism - the luxury brand was one of the first to use vegan leather, including working with anti-consumer group Extinction Rebellion

on a campaign aired last year.

Now, the brand unveils its first gender-neutral capsule collection. Entitled “Shared”, this line which is aimed at everyone, erases the old notions of “target market” and relaunches the debate on the fluidity of fashion.

Or the Telfar Clemens brand founded by the designer of the same name. in 2002. The New York label was popularized with its Telfar bag, affectionately dubbed the “Bushwick Birkin,”

which quickly became a fashion accessory prized for its affordability and practicality.

The famous black and queer designer never imagined this bag for a specific person. He creates genderless products that are “not for you” but “for everyone”, as evidenced by the

message of inclusiveness he spreads through his brand.

The brand's clothing consists of minimalist, well-thought-out basic pieces combined with a strong streetwear sensibility, true to Clemens' New York roots. Functional and affordable, the

brand, awarded the CFDA / Vogue Fashion Fund Award in 2017, is aimed at everyone, regardless of their gender or origin.

More recently the cover of American Vogue of December 2020 caused a sensation. Singer

Harry Styles makes the cover in an evening gown. Harry defines himself as a man and yet

wears dresses. He redefines the notion of masculinity in his own way: “To cover the cover as

a man with a dress is to wear all your confidence and authenticity without needing to blend

into a standard, in a format of masculinity. 'is welcoming all parts of yourself, ”he says.

At Elemntz we partner with contemporary brands who feel concerned with issues related to

social and/or environmental justice, inclusivity is one of the values we defend.

We work with innovative, young, talented and promising brands. The Elemntz way is to become a partner and fully utilise our expertise towards achieving for our brand partners

commercial success in the UK.


For Elemntz