Olivier Rousteing is back with with a sensational fashion couture show for Jean Paul Gaultier.
The Balmain creative director took inspiration from the French house archives to create the Fall/Winter collection, which took place in Paris last week.
This collaboration is a tribune to Gaultier:
“He was ahead of his time about freedom of expression. Today, we talk about inclusivity, we talk about diversity, we talk about breaking boundaries, we talk about no binaries, no gender. Obviously, Jean Paul was the first one to do it.” Olivier Rousteing said.
However the show was severely criticised by several commentators for presenting the collections with a lot of safety pins still on the models.
Calum knight In a TikTok video, “Should couture be produced as fast fashion?”
Criticised the relationship between The Balmain creative director and the Jean Paul’s Gaultier team: “You need time, couture isn’t a machine. You need to learn to work with your petites mains. You need to train your team. You need to work with them.”
The Show studio creative director continued by criticising the Gaultier team for “rehashing ideas they’ve had for years” under a new creative director “who hasn’t worked with them and they don’t have the relationships with.”
He added: “And that was a problem today because lots of the collection was safety-pinned. And you could see it very evidently from the third row where we were sitting. Lots of shoulder-pads safety pinned on, dresses safety-pinned at the back, at the boob to stop things falling off. This is supposed to be the height of dress-making,” he continued.
He conclude that he found it “really problematic” that the brand was “putting marketing before a craft”.
But other users questioned whether the safety pins were in fact part of the collection’s aesthetic.
Indeed it seems that some of the pieces actually required a lot of hours, if you take the the sweeping corseted pink sweatshirt that convert into an opera coat at the back and draped into a siren skirt in the front It appears that the woven menswear pinstripe was actually an illusion created with insertions of white crepe an incredible process that took 600 hours.